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  • "jhcolclough" started this thread

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Saturday, October 3rd 2015, 4:38pm

Africa Trip June 2015- 7 Countries, 3 Months, 18 800km – Central Mozambique August 2015

The road from Ilha de Mocambique south was good until Sofala province. First through Nampala where we stocked up at Shoprite. On the way out T4A took us across railway but this is wrong, just keep on tar. Along the way were stopped by military – very pleasant and asked if we can give a lift to one of their guys. As they could see our back seat empty and also knew where we were going we agreed. The next 6 hours was very quiet as the policeman could not speak English and we had minimal Portuguese. It was not a problem and at least we made someone’s day.

We skirted Quelimane and headed down to Zalala beach (10 hour day). It is a beautiful area with coconut palm forests and intensive small scale vegetable farming. As we got to Zalala the heavens opened and the sun went down so we decided not to camp and took the track to Zalala Lodge. The place was empty and the owner refused to negotiate (Met 5000 odd) so we headed back to Zalala and found a local residence opposite the police station. Very cheap, bucket hot showers and good for what we needed. Had the most divine large prawns across the road – the owner apologised as he only had small prawns – would love to see the large ones. After a walk on the long flat beach in the morning we checked the camp sites – look fair but empty and headed off to Gorongosa.

The road from Nicuadala (Nicoadala) to past Gorongosa is a potholed nightmare but with a stunning bridge over the Zambezi . Took us just under 8 hours with the dust section into the park a corrugated plank of a road. Gorongosa has a beautiful camp site at Chitengo lodge. We did a morning drive, self drive not allowed, and were disappointed. Saw 2 pissed off elephants and some large crocs, also we were with 8 Argentinians and as we had lost the rugby the night before we kept quiet. Too do justice to the area you need to say a few days but costs are high.

The drive to Inhassoro was on a poor tarred road and took us 6 hours. We first looked at Seta Lodge & Camping, deserted and barren so headed on down to Goody Villas. Beautiful grass sites on the beach but bar etc. was closed and deserted. Would have stayed but not what we wanted so headed off to Vilankulo and Baobab Backpackers Lodge & camping (book in season as was very busy compared to anywhere else). What a find.

Spend 3 glorious days here with a day trip to snorkel at 2 mile reef past Benguerra island, lunch on the dunes at Bazaruto island. A must do if in the area. Spent entertaining 2 hours buying fish from locals on the beach which fed us for 2 braais – best fish ever (king fish). Also bought prawns for first night in Kruger.

Eventually it was time to head back into SA. Initially we were going to camp at Lago Banamana (contact Trevor Landrey on Facebook or at Smugglers in Vilanculous) but after reading on the 4*4 Forum about the route to Pafuri we change as in August would only need one night on the road. The dust road to Banamana is great, lake was a dust bowl when we passed, but then road works with plenty of sticks, roots and logs. Luckily we got through with no worries but as the roots etc. dry out could be a problem. Getting to Machaila in early afternoon we decide to push on to Mapai. There is a community camp site at Machaila which we missed. See info on route…highlight=mapai

Stayed at Reform Church in Mapai (camping R 75 pp) with hot bucket showers and clean long drop (7 hours odd). As you approach Mapai from Machaila (good road) there is a new garage on left at tar road. Also the road continues straight across the tar to the Limpopo which is not on T4A. Next day hardly wet the car as we drove through Limpopo puddle. Paid the R 70 (Met 200) at boom gate and under 3 hours later were at Pafuri Gate. This section of road is fair dust but watch out for the small river beds as if hit at speed can do damage. Quick through Moz customs with a last desperate attempt by officials for a gift – no chance.

We then took 2 weeks to get home to CT as we did not want to stop travelling.

So 18 800 km later with no major problems (breaks not good from Rwanda to home – bearing problem) and not a single bribe paid or traffic fine received. Would do it again to tomorrow.
jhcolclough has attached the following images:
  • And they worry about seat belts in the back .JPG
  • Baobab BAckpackers camp site.JPG
  • Lunch o nBazaruto looking across to Benguerra.JPG
  • Bazaruto Dunes.JPG
  • Vilanculos .JPG
  • Lunch near Machaila .JPG
  • Not the place to be - road to Limpopo not on T4A.JPG
  • Crossing the Limpopo.JPG
  • Mapai Reform Church camp site.JPG


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Saturday, October 3rd 2015, 8:14pm

Thanks for a great story and wonderful photos.

I am sure the most of us are extremely jealous.

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Saturday, October 3rd 2015, 8:56pm

Thanks for a great story and wonderful photos.

I am sure the most of us are extremely jealous.

Maar jaloers op mooi manier


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